Los Angeles has one of the most robust and delightful sushi scenes in the country, from vegan sushi to fusion sushi, from grocery store takeout to fine dining. If youâ€™re looking for a truly special meal, there are countless options, but here are a few favorites that express seasonality through the mind-boggling and delicious range of their omakases.
The chef Hide Takedaâ€™s counter is a tiny oasis on the third floor of Weller Court in Little Tokyo with warm service and fast-paced omakases punctuated by hard-to-find dishes like beautifully shaped iwashi maki, or sardine rolls.
123 Astronaut Ellison S. Onizuka Street, No. 307, Los Angeles; 213-613-0083; hide-sushi.com
The West Hollywood location of this exquisite and expensive chain is headed up by Yohei Matsuki, whose knife work is a pleasure to watch, and who specializes in seasonal luxuries and elegant seafood butchery performed to order at the counter.
609 La Cienega Boulevard, West Hollywood, Calif.; 323-433-4817; sushiginzaonoderala.com
Ken Namba is a force behind this casual counter, with a loose, nontraditional style and a sense of warmth that carries through the small plates and nigiri. Itâ€™s just as delightful for a quick, reasonable lunch as for a long, lingering dinner.
11301 West Olympic Boulevard No. 102, Los Angeles; 310-478-7769; kirikosushi.com
The pretty design and millennial-pink seating is tempered by Hideyuki Yoshimotoâ€™s sushi, featuring an intensity of seasoning and fondness for torched fish, shimmering with rendered fat. Itâ€™s one of the few high-end counters with outdoor seating, and the vegetarian nigiri shines.
116 North Robertson Boulevard, Los Angeles; 424-249-3009; sushitama-la.com
A Los Angeles star, Morihiro Onodera now runs his own restaurant, attached to a Vietnamese noodle bar in Atwater Village. He offers stunning omakases and excellent lunch deals that feature imported rice polished each day in-house. If your budget allows, book seating at the counter.
3133 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles; 323-522-3993; morionodera.com