Empellón Taqueria Opens an Outpost on the Upper West Side

The chef and restaurateur Alex Stupak will open an uptown edition of his West Village taqueria in Waterline Square, a several square-block cluster with many architecturally distinctive apartment towers in the far southwest corner of the Upper West Side. Airy, light-filled and glass-walled, it provides a sharp contrast to the low-ceiling, brick-walled original, which opened 10 years ago. Inside, there’s an open kitchen and 60 seats, with another 60 on the sidewalk. As different as the space looks, the menu is a near copy of what Mr. Stupak serves downtown, with queso fundido, guacamole, quesadillas and tacos with fillings like fish tempura with cabbage and tartar sauce, brussels sprouts with spicy almonds, and shrimp with avocado and pumpkin seeds. Tequilas and mezcals fuel a large share of the drinks by Noah Small, who has been with Mr. Stupak’s organization for years. (Opens Friday)

3 Waterline Square, empellon.com.

The chef Christian Rowan, an alumnus of Bouley, Le Bernardin and Eleven Madison Park, created this American bistro, which takes creative liberties with comfort classics. He named the restaurant for his grandmother. On his menu are clam chowder potpie, caramelized onion focaccia with assorted toppings, grilled calamari with spiced almond dip, honey and miso-brined chicken, hangar steak with brussels sprouts and cheesy potato purée, and warm homemade “pop tarts.” Beyond a 12-seat bar with some high-top tables nearby is the dining room, done with velvet banquettes and floral details. (Wednesday)

24 Greenwich Avenue (West 10th Street), 917-261-5814, mariansnyc.com.

This 10-year-old Chinese restaurant, which was awarded a Michelin star, has reopened after a pandemic hiatus a block to the east in Murray Hill. Yiming Wang and her husband, Xian Zhang, have moved it into a brick building that’s nearly 100 years old. The restaurant occupies three floors with a spacious main-floor dining room and bar; a mezzanine on the second floor with wraparound counter seating and some tables in a library-style setting; rooms for private events; and a skylighted top floor with communal tables for parties or dining. The décor reflects Ms. Wang’s sense of Shanghai style with Western touches. Café China’s popular tea-smoked duck is back, and new to the menu are boneless pork trotters and short ribs in a clay pot. Though their TriBeCa restaurant, China Blue, closed permanently during the pandemic, their Birds of a Feather in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, remains open. (Wednesday)

59 West 37th Street, 212-213-2810, cafechinanyc.com.

Stephen Starr is reopening this high-end restaurant in the New York Edition hotel at Madison Square Park. The restaurant returned from its pandemic closing in September but with a temporary menu. Now the original chef, Jason Atherton from England, is back. He’s replacing his old menu, a mix of English, French and American influences, with one he’s calling “100 percent British, like the food back home.” Scotch egg with walnut ketchup, London gin-cured salmon with an English muffin, braised lamb shepherd’s pie, beef Wellington, and beer-battered cod with mushy peas and seaweed tartar sauce are on the savory side, with English custard tart and banoffee baked alaska among the sweets.

The New York Edition, 5 Madison Avenue, 212-413-4300, theclocktowernyc.com.

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