Francis Mallmann Gives Vegetables Time in the Fire

Long considered the meat maestro when it comes to grilling, the Argentine chef and restaurateur Francis Mallmann has turned his attention to plants. His latest, vibrantly-illustrated tome, written from his outpost in the Patagonia region, covers fruits and a dozen different vegetables suitable for grilling. Accommodating a standard Weber grill with other equipment, including a plancha and a Dutch oven, he takes the cook through charred fennel, scorched brussels sprout leaves, roasted cabbage, smashed potatoes and seared beets with their greens. He suggests grilling polenta and even a dense form of hummus. Only a wood or charcoal fire can coax proper results from some of the vegetables. There are a seven cocktail recipes, with grilled components. But a second volume will be necessary to address the mushrooms, chicories, alliums and peppers not covered here.

“Green Fire: Extraordinary Ways to Grill Fruits and Vegetables From the Master of Live-Fire Cooking” by Francis Mallmann with Peter Kaminsky and Donna Gelb (Artisan, $40).

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