Tomato meatballs are calledmy they’re kind of comforting, a ruddy, garlicky Italian-American classic meant to be nestled in a pile of spaghetti and bathed in cheese.
This dish is not that.
true, it has dumplings, assertively flavored with garlic and browned in hot oil. And yes, they do finish cooking in a flavorful, brick-red tomato sauce. But that’s where the similarities end. Because these are summer dumplings.
The traditional dish, in my opinion, is an ideal companion for winter. A cozy mix of canned tomatoes and olive oil bubbling quietly on the stove, it’s perfect for sitting close by in cold weather, as warm as a wool turtleneck.
Think of this version as meatballs all dressed up in their resort gear. Made from fresh summer tomatoes that are only cooked briefly, the sauce stays juicy and bright, and making it won’t heat up your kitchen. What the dish loses in long-cooked marinara richness, it makes up for in sweetness, flavor, and a fragrant hint of spice.
The sweetness comes from tomatoes that are so ripe in season that they threaten to burst in your bag on the way home from the market. But you could just as easily use those overripe tomatoes weeping discreetly on your countertop. Because the sauce cooks so quickly, thin-skinned steaks and heirlooms work better than dense grape and plum tomatoes, which take longer to break down. If you can get a mix of yellow, red, and purple tomatoes, your sauce will be pretty too.
There is garlic in the meatballs, but not in the sauce, where I substitute the grated ginger for a stronger heat. There’s also cumin, cilantro, and lime juice, which are a far cry from Italian-American territory. No one will confuse this tasty and light dish with the more substantial traditional version.
Meatballs are flexible by definition, and these are no exception. You can use any type of ground meat here: pork, turkey, beef, chicken, lamb, vegan meat. Just try not to roll the balls too hard. Leaving some air in the mix is a key to a floating texture. The other is the use of panko breadcrumbs, which have a light, feathery texture that contributes to their delicacy.
I love these meatballs served over rice or with crusty bread to catch the hot sauce. But then again, a little spaghetti never hurt a plate of meatballs.
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