Fashion Week is back in full force, and thereâ€™s a lot to see. Blink (or scroll too fast on Instagram) and youâ€™ll miss the details: tiny bags, tall shoes, feathered hats, leather capes and diamond dog collars. Every day weâ€™ll spotlight one thing we saw on the runways that delighted or mystified us.
The most anticipated runway show of New York Fashion Week was staged by a young designer not well known outside of fashion â€” a fact that may soon (or soon-ish) no longer be true.
Peter Do has been hailed as fashionâ€™s latest rule breaker, largely because of how he runs his business (with no hurried ambition to build an empire) and how outspoken he has been about his values: â€œkindness and mutual respect, which still strangely seems rare in fashion,â€ as he said last year. Despite forming his label in 2018, he had not shown a collection on the runway before this week.
That collection was full of finely tailored suits and oversize button-up shirts, long skirts and slinky trench coats, and huge low-slung leather bags. But just glancing at a slide show of looks wonâ€™t reveal one of Mr. Doâ€™s most elegant (a word used almost automatically when people describe his work) runway touches: a hole-shaped cutout on the back of a long dark khaki coat.
What makes a cutout elegant? Itâ€™s the shape, for one: an oval stretching vertically from the shoulder blades down to the sacrum. Itâ€™s the juxtaposition of its curves with the coatâ€™s precise lines. On Wednesday, a runway model wore the coat as part of a monochromatic look, layered on top of a suit, so that the sinuous cutout revealed the suit jacketâ€™s sharp center back seam.
Itâ€™s also the practicality of such a hole on such a heavy coat: the sensation that comes from just looking at it, knowing exactly what it would feel like to wear it on a chilly but sunny day, letting cold breeze hit a warm back.