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The year belongs to Gaurav Gupta

Jr NTR at the Oscars, Cardi B at the Grammys, a new collection and a flagship store: the ace designer’s sculpted couture is flying high in the fashion world.

On the red carpet of any dramatic awards season, the outfit is the proverbial winner. And nearly two decades after revamping bridal couture in India, Gaurav Gupta pushed it further once more with his debut at Paris Haute Couture Week. From Jr NTR at the Oscars to Cardi B at the Grammys, this couturier’s creations have seen the glitz and glamor few achieve. But for the rebellious spirit of the designer, there are many miles to go. Extracts from an interview:

Gaurav Gupta dressed the RRR Jr NTR actor in a black bandhgala sherwani with a golden lion embroidered on the side for the 2023 Oscars

Congratulations on your Paris Haute Couture Week debut. What was the experience like and has there been a change in perspective for you since then?

Gaurav Gupta: The experience of debuting at Paris Haute Couture Week was breathtaking and felt like a dream come true. Being selected by the prestigious federation to exhibit on this revered global platform made me feel proud and grateful. This opportunity has been a dream for a long time, and it took the team and me 25 years to make it a reality. We wanted to be fully equipped as an organization to maintain the momentum of this achievement. The response from around the world has been moving and overwhelming. Our efforts all this time were being aligned to this very moment. Now the focus will be to make this bigger and more magical with each passing season and collection.

Cardi B with Gaurav Gupta Couture at the Grammys Cardi B with Gaurav Gupta Couture at the Grammys

Tell us a little about your creative process. How was your new collection, Secret of Shores, born?

Gaurav Gupta: For this collection, we have woven the secrets of the shores into our sculptural haute couture: mermaids suspended on the rocks, abstract corals luminous from within, fins longed for with our indigenous techniques that have been interpreted with infinitely bright and enchanting silhouettes emerging from the ocean. . Sand-colored satins, crepes and tulles enjoy golden sunburst embroidery interspersed with art nouveau-inspired gothic overlays enhanced with endless glass bugle beads and metal spiral embroidery. Lehengas and dresses go voluminous with a flowing play of organza layers that move like ocean waves. We’ve explored new hybrid silhouettes like sultry lehengas and sari lehengas, which are more statuesque and mermaid-inspired.

The 'Secret of Shores' collection features shimmering, enchanting silhouettes emerging from the ocean. The ‘Secret of Shores’ collection features shimmering, enchanting silhouettes emerging from the ocean.

There are violets and purples along with the ocean blue that recalls the color of the sunset on the shore. There is also a color of dew imagined in a variety of shimmering golds, shimmering silvers reflecting shorelines shimmering in the bright sun.

His designs are being appreciated worldwide. Is there a strategy for these types of celebrity collaborations? Do they have to accommodate your design sensibilities or do you work around theirs?

Gaurav Gupta: It’s a natural process honestly. Both the artist and I share the vision and are grateful to Hema Bose of Maison Bose for bringing it all together. We work side by side with her to dress all these culturalists. We’ve been able to dress up here and have some really exciting projects and placements in the pipeline.

The designer has brought his latest three-story flagship to Mumbai's Kala Ghoda district. The designer has brought his latest three-story flagship to MumbaiKala Ghoda district

What happens to the outfits after the event? Can we expect an archival collection in your workshop?

Gaurav Gupta: Yes, we keep adding those iconic moments as part of the Gaurav Gupta archive. From Megan Thee Stallion’s dress to Aishwarya Rai‘s and now Cardi’s, we’re excited to expand our archives and hopefully collect them all for a future exhibit to celebrate the brand’s glorious journey.

Indian designers are having their moment internationally. Do you have any advice for other designers looking beyond our limits?

Gaurav Gupta: I would say that one has to be true to their voice and their sense of understanding of the industry and the magic is just around the corner to make it happen if they are determined with their hard work and sensitivity.

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