Good morning. Dinner tonight might be pasta and cannellini beans with a sauce of beurre blanc (above), a recipe that Tejal Rao learned from the British cookbook author Jack Monroe. I like it because it’s easy and luxurious and comes together fast. And it’ll leave me time to prepare the marinade for these awesome pork gyros for tomorrow or the next day, with oven-baked French fries on the side, and ketchup spiked with hot sauce and yogurt run through with lemon juice and garlic.
It’s the season of the make-ahead, after all: brandied dried fruit for cakes and braises alike; dirty chai earthquake cookies to take into the still-quiet office, to share with those who made the trek; a black cake to feed with rum until the end of the month.
But I’ll make more than food for the future this week. I want to give this chocolate cake with peppermint frosting a try as well. A version might end up on the Christmas table, to follow the ham. (Here, by the way, is a hilariously specific collection of recipes we have: Breads for Ham.) I’d like to make linguine with lemon sauce one night soon. And Maangchi’s recipe for cheese buldak as well.
I could go for some pasta puttanesca. I’d love to tuck into a platter of veal Pojarski. Roasted squash salad would be a lovely dinner, too, out of the fertile mind of Ned Baldwin, the chef and owner of Houseman in New York. And how about a grain frittata with chile lime and fresh herbs? Or gochugaru salmon with crispy rice? That, too!
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Now, it’s more to do with professional kitchens than anything to do with making dinner for your family, but I loved this exit interview the Montreal Gazette had with the chef David McMillan, who recently announced his departure from the business after 32 years. “I never want to shave white truffles onto asparagus for someone from Toronto ever again in my life,” he said.
To help celebrate the 10th anniversary edition of “The Essential New York Times Cookbook,” I visited with my old colleague Amanda Hesser, who wrote it, and we cooked Momofuku’s bo ssam for the cameras of Food52. That video is here.