Good morning. Happy Juneteenth. For The Times, Veronica Chambers put together a special package of articles about the holiday. Of course thereâ€™s food involved, as in Nicole Taylorâ€™s curated collection of Juneteenth recipes (and in her article about how black chefs are celebrating), and in Toni Tipton-Martinâ€™s essay about how the women she wrote about in her â€œThe Jemima Code: Two Centuries of African American Cookbooksâ€ transformed her, in the kitchen and on the page. Dig in.
And not just to the reading. If youâ€™re celebrating, tonight would be great for Nicoleâ€™s recipe for mushrooms roasted with a Memphis-style dry rub, employing the rub used by Greg Collier, the chef and co-owner of Leah & Louise in Charlotte, N.C. It pairs nicely with Collierâ€™s recipe for sweet potato pikliz. And for dessert, if you can manage it, Jerrelle Guyâ€™s recipe for strawberry pretzel pie (above).
Saturdayâ€™s the first day of summer. Time to think about summer barbecue. (Iâ€™m thinking of pulling out the San Antonio chef Quealy Watsonâ€™s recipe for a South Texas barbecued duck.) Time to think about sunny, gorgeous summer pastas. Time to think about summer cocktails.
Iâ€™d like to have morning glory muffins on Sunday, and pan bagnat for lunch. (Listen to Melissa Clark: Make the sandwiches on Saturday afternoon, and let the flavors marry. Theyâ€™ll be much, much better for the time spent together.) Dinner: Stuffed shells, filled with spinach and ricotta.
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Now, itâ€™s nothing to do with mincemeat or crullers, but Iâ€™ve talked to you before about the band Khruangbin. Here is their story, by Marcus J. Moore in The Times.
Iâ€™m late to it, but so might you be: Tana Frenchâ€™s thrillery â€œThe Witch Elm,â€ from 2018.
Artforum puts its spotlight on Kehinde Wileyâ€™s show â€œThe Yellow Wallpaperâ€ at William Morris Gallery in London. Thatâ€™s worth exploring.
Finally, Iâ€™ve been wondering about you and your cooking and how your relationship with food and the kitchen has changed over the course of the pandemic. I shop a lot less, but buy a lot more when I do. That has created some issues with ingredient management and, I think, led me to a much more fluid kind of cooking, more dependent on improvisation and substitution than at any time in the past. How about you? Glad about your stand mixer? Thankful for your knife sharpener? Eating more oysters? Eating less meat? Do let me know: firstname.lastname@example.org. And Iâ€™ll see you on Sunday.