The conventional wisdom about traveling to Southeast Asia during the rainy season is that you shouldn’t do it. But the conventional wisdom is wrong, says Supratik Guha, CEO of Anantara Angkor Resort.
The rainy season, which runs from May to October, is one of the best times to visit a destination like Cambodia.
“People feel that rain is an obstacle, but for a destination like this, I think rain is a complement,” he says. “When you drive into the countryside, it’s green and you see the rice being planted, it’s super nice.”
Here’s something else that’s super nice: Many American guests avoid the rainy season, also known as the green season, and wait until November to come to Southeast Asia. But if you visited during the rain, I’m sorry, green — season, they would find few crowds and prices 30 to 40 percent lower than peak season rates.
On a recent tour of Southeast Asia during the monsoon season, that’s what I discovered. The rainy season can be the ideal time for an adventure in this part of the world.
When is monsoon season in Southeast Asia?
The monsoon season in Southeast Asia usually begins in May and ends in October. But it varies depending on the country. In Thailand, the monsoon season lasts between July and October. In Vietnam, it is from May to November. And in Bali, the rainy season lasts from November to April. But it depends on your location within the country. For example, in Hoi An, in the central mountainous part of Vietnam, near Da Nang, the monsoon season does not begin until September, according to locals.
How bad is the rainy season in Southeast Asia?
It really depends on where you are. When I was in Bali in June, which is technically out of the rainy season, it rained non-stop for two weeks. In Thailand this August, the mornings were usually clear and there were brief but heavy showers in the afternoon.
In Cambodia, also in August, the rain started in the afternoon and was intermittent for the rest of the day, but was never intense. In Vietnam in August it never rained, but people there told me I could expect flooding next month. On the other hand, with the weather we’ve had lately, who knows what will happen? (Here is my Guide to planning a trip at any time of the year.)
It wouldn’t be Cambodia without a little rain
Take Siem Reap, Cambodia, for example. On a typical day during the rainy season, the sky is clear in the morning, offering a postcard-perfect sunrise over the temples of Angkor Wat. As the day progresses, clouds accumulate and rain begins in the afternoon. But sometimes that’s not the case, says Cedrick Ragel, a spokesman for the Angkor Grand Hotel.
“There’s a feeling that it never stops raining here,” he says on a recent August morning, pointing to the sky. “But the sun is right here.”
Supratik Guha of Anantara Angkor Resort says that even when it rains, the effects are minimal. Before the government improved Siem Reap’s roads, streets flooded during heavy rains. But now, with new drainage systems installed, there has been no flooding. TO The inauguration of the new airport is scheduled for October.adding to the region’s improved infrastructure.
Guha says visitors who want a luxury boutique hotel experience, plus the benefits of Angkor Wat’s unique temples, should consider a visit during the rainy season. His pitch is pretty convincing: Angkor Wat just isn’t the same without a little drizzle on the moss-covered ruins. And there’s something to be said for a little moisture and authenticity.
Vietnam: waiting for the rain in Hoi An
The rainy season has not yet started in Vietnam at this time of year. But it’s hot in Hoi An, a resort town south of Da Nang. It feels like August in Manhattan: hot and humid, with temperatures exceeding triple digits.
I asked Ross Sanders, the area general manager for Vietnam with Minor hotels, about the rainy season. In September, which is the official start of the monsoon season, the area can be inundated with rain and the nearby river can overflow its banks. But the waters are receding quickly.
“It’s not that bad,” he says.
Visiting a hotel like Anantara Hoi An during the shoulder season is a special experience. The luxury hotel is not crowded and you can always find a table at the Hoi An Riverside restaurant. There you can enjoy authentic Vietnamese food while watching the boats with their colorful lanterns floating up and down the Thu Bon River.
In Hoi An town, just a short walk from the hotel, you will find some colorful Chinese temples, as well as a market with shops selling clothing and souvenirs. In summer, Hoi An comes alive early in the morning and late at night, so if you want the place to yourself, try taking a stroll around the city after breakfast.
Sanders recommends visiting Vietnam during the summer because the rates are lower and you get a lot of individual attention. And the locals seem really happy to see you at a time when most tourists are staying home.
A view of Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Christopher Elliott
Bangkok’s best kept secret
The biggest surprise for me was Thailand, a place where the rainy season is legendary. At the beginning of August in Bangkok it remained relatively dry. During the afternoon, it rained occasionally, but not the torrential rains that would be expected during the monsoon season. Insiders say that late July and early August may be relatively clear, something I never knew.
“Late August and September is when things start,” says Dan Schacter, spokesman for the Four Seasons Bangkok.
So, according to experts, there are a few weeks between the official start and the actual start of the rainy season, when you can experience a less rainy Bangkok.
One of the highlights of my visit was a boat tour of Bangkok’s canals, which departed from the pier at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok and ending at the newly completed Buddha statue of Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen, a temple whose giant 230-foot statue is visible from most of the city. The canals are fascinating ancient waterways, a reminder of ancient Siam.
Rainy mornings in the Golden Triangle and relatively calm
In northern Thailand, along the border of Laos and Myanmar, I had the closest thing to a real monsoon experience. The rain started early in the morning before dawn. It was a downpour the likes of which he had not experienced since he lived in Hilo, Hawaii. I was spending a night in Anantara Golden Triangle, a luxury property with an elephant camp and stunning views of the Mekong River. Only that particular morning there were no views.
But just after dawn, the rain turned off like a switch, revealing the river and the smoke-shrouded mountains of Myanmar and Laos in the distance. I asked a manager if this was typical of the green season. No, I’m told the rain lasts longer. But this monsoon season has been drier, at least so far. August is “relatively quiet” at the hotel – the perfect time to visit the elephants and also save some money.
Traveling to Southeast Asia during the rainy season is a gamble, but it can pay off in many ways. In a place like the Golden Triangle you can enjoy a little solitude walking the trails that lead to the Ruak River, one of the tributaries of the Mekong. You can have the spa to yourself. You can walk with the elephants without feeling like you’re at a press conference, with tourists around you taking pictures. In fact, it may be the ideal time to visit this part of the world.
And the rain is like a character in a novel. It’s always there, adding authenticity and a bit of unpredictability to the equation. That’s what turns a normal trip into an adventure. But bring your raincoat, just in case.
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